Friday, January 18, 2019

Propeller, exhaust system, odds & ends

Since the last post, working on various firewall forward items and miscellaneous stuff.  The biggest news is that this past weekend, my friend Bob Bohn who is an A&P/IA helped install the propeller and exhaust system.  Since then, I've installed the EGT probes, rest of exhaust system (heat muffs, scat tubes etc), and also finished the nose gear leg fairing. 

Some of the items done since last post:

Nose gear leg fairing:

Finishing up snorkel (alt air door now in progress):

Lines to remote oil filter, filter installed:

 Firewall forward wiring:

Propeller is on the airplane (and another huge box is out of the house):


Flywheel, prop bolts, alternator belt:

 Scat tubes:

Heat muffs:

I installed a direct ground from engine (via the engine grounding strap attached to engine mount) directly to the battery ground on firewall.  This will reduce risk of starter current taking a ground path through cables or other paths that might create excess heat.

Monday, January 7, 2019

Firewall forward work, starter switch wiring, snorkel fitting

Lots going on these days.  Since last post I received some items needed to finish the installation of the Airflow servo - I had to replace the original studs which meant I needed stud removal tool (nice but expensive item from Snap On) and the recommended Loctite primer and high-temp thread locker for the replacement studs.  Got all that done, permanently mounted the servo and the throttle and mixture cables, and started fitting the snorkel. 

Every decision you make that deviates from Vans "standard" build results in consequences.   The FM-150 servo fits differently from the standard servo, so the snorkel has to be modified to work - I followed the method described by "Nova RV" on Vans Air Force - basically I cut slits (actually removed wedges of material) and remodeled the snorkel to fit the air filter frame as it sits, clecoed it up and then used strips of fiberglass cloth to close the gaps and permanently reshape the snorkel.  I'm happy with the result and will spend the next few days permanently mating the snorkel to the air filter frame, and shaping/sanding the inside and outside surfaces to be smooth and accept the alternate air door. 

The starter switch wiring was an interesting challenge - Vic Syracuse helped me figure this out.  Normally if you decide to start the engine on one magneto it's the left - the starter switch has a nice little jumper that "kills" (grounds the P-lead) the right magneto during start.  I wanted to do the opposite - use the PMAG to start which is on the right side and kill the left magneto during start.  The way to do this is to run a jumper from the "LR" terminal on the starter switch to the grounding terminal on the switch.  This video shows the test:  "tone" means left magneto is dead/grounded.

I spent quite a bit of time installing and wiring up the CHT probes, running wires to spark plugs, making sure they are all properly supported, etc.

Also I installed fuel line from firewall to fuel pump, fabricated and installed the oil breather hose, fabricated the oil cooler support tray, and all the associated hardware to install the oil cooler.  This includes installing seals and sealing up the corners of the cooler inlet assembly.  While I had the red RTV out, I sealed up the baffles along the front of the engine.

Also - final fitting of the nose wheel fairing using flox to seat the brackets:

Sealing up connectors on CHT wires:

Based on recommendations from experts on VAF, I used these "OLC-1" connectors which avoid the problems that tend to happen with these wires: crimp connectors tend to corrode, solder is not acceptable due to the special metallurgy of the thermocouples, and the standard ring terminals that include screws seem to be problematic as well.

Servo permanently mounted - use Permatex gasket sealant on the gaskets (it's blue):

Mixture cable rod end - I wasn't able to use Aiflow's recommended position here (rod end on top of arm) because the rod end and cable extension (hex shaped rod) interfered with the arm and other structure).  I ran this approach by my guru (Vic S) and he gives it a thumbs up.

Snorkel mods with peel ply in place:

 Oil cooler with seals and fittings for hoses.  Because of the PMAG and use of remote oil filter I ran the oil lines differently from Van's standard - so fittings are clocked to work with those routings.  All good.

Routing wires to cylinders:

Oil cooler tray:

I installed a quick drain for oil changes (when I removed the plug lots of preservative oil came out - that stuff is gooey).

Monday, December 31, 2018

More cowl baffles, wiring, control cables, etc etc

Since last post have been jumping around a bit.  Still waiting on some re-fit of fuel and oil lines to finish up install of fuel servo and snorkel.  Installed control cables to panel, completed the prop control cable - waiting to finish the throttle/mixture when servo install done.  I've gotten all the wires through firewall, cleaned up wiring under the panel/subpanel, and connected the sensors forward of the firewall, and the top spark plugs.   I'm using Deutsch DTM connectors and service loops for all the sensors.

I had to do some inventive bracket fabrication to stabilize the manifold pressure hose. 

Also got the manifold pressure hose connected to PMAG.  And more little stuff.  FWF is starting to look more complete.  Still lots to do of course....

Upper plugs 1 and 3:

Bracket for manifold pressure line and sensor wiring right side:

Battery / alternator cables, ANL fuses, ammeter shunt, sensor connections on left side. 

Left side thru - hull.  Sealed it because I can't add any more wires here.  I did put a couple of spares in place for any future needs.

 Control cables in place:

Cleaned up wiring:

Prop governor control:

Tuesday, December 18, 2018

Work continues on cowl baffles, partially installed remote air filter kit, odds & ends

I completed installing the cowl baffles around the engine/cylinders today.   Also did final fitting of nose wheel fairing after laying up some extra layers of fiberglass cloth in the area where the brackets will be attached - I'll also use flox to perfectly fit the brackets to the fairings.

The remote oil filter has two advantages over standard location: first, it's much easier to change the filter without making a huge mess and second, lower oil temps according to Airwolf (company that makes the remote filter kit) and anecdotal experience as well.

I test fit the snorkel today and having trouble getting it to fit due to interference with the induction tube for the #2 cylinder intake pipe.   I'll call the mothership tomorrow for advice on this.

Remote oil filter adapter with vernatherm and oil temp sensor installed:

Oil filter bracket on firewall.  I will be ordering lines from the adapter to the bracket.

Adapter "in situ":

Baffles in progress:

Installed on engine:

Can't get snorkel properly fit due to interference with cylinder intake.   This is with the air filter frame removed - can't get close to putting it and snorkel together with the frame properly seated.

Propeller, exhaust system, odds & ends

Since the last post, working on various firewall forward items and miscellaneous stuff.  The biggest news is that this past weekend, my fri...