January 18th Update

Got quite a bit done.  First, I've been cleaning up wiring, putting shrink wrap over wires where they might chafe, adding cable ties, just making it look super/extra tidy.

Next, torqued all the bolts in the aileron controls, and checked torque on bolts in aft ribs through spar.

Today I started prep of the outboard bottom wing skin and fitted the Dynon pitot mast to the spar, adjacent rib, and skin.  I'll be doing "all Garmin G3X" and Garmin pitot tube, but Stein Air recommended the Dynon mast - it comes with a nice kit, good instructions (I had to look them up on the web but they're good!).   I match drilled the bracket to the spar flange, then match drilled holes in skin and bracket using the template.  I'm putting the pitot/AOA tube one bay outboard of the aileron brackets based on Vic Syracuse's recommendation.   Easy to reach from outboard access panel, and clears the aileron pushrod tube/brackets etc.

Dynon has a nice template to help match up the mast to the skin - the most time was removing material carefully, smoothing the edges, and repeatedly checking fit.  I'm very pleased with the result.  The pitot mast includes an angle brace which I riveted to the adjacent rib: this really stabilizes the installation.  I've seen people attach pitot masts to access hatches but I wouldn't be comfortable with the stability of that - the plus side is access and easy of replacement of course.

Next steps will be countersinking the mast bracket, finishing skin prep (including dimpling) and fabricating the J-channel stiffener.  The RV-14 instructions are TERRIBLE in giving any guidance on how to do this on a quickbuild wing.  I spoke with a Van's support person (Eric) who pointed me to the RV-10 instructions (page 20-5) which tell you how to do this on QB wings.  The only difference is length of course, which I found in section 16.  The fun never ends!

January 17th 2018 Update. Wing systems/Aileron/wiring

The quickbuild wings make it easy to "jump around" a bit.  I'm finding that I'm constantly having to order a random tool/part/wiring etc. so I've been moving along at a pace that allows me to do different things.  Since last update I've done the following (and some other stuff I'm not thinking to mention):

• Put CPVC conduit along length of the left wing (will do this on other wing as well).  I'm using 3/4" CPVC and plastic/composite suspension clamps to hold this in place.  I discussed options with Vic Syracuse and this was my best compromise.
  
  
  
  
• Run Van's supplied wiring harnesses in wings, routing some wires through existing snap bushings, others through the conduit (using holes to exit wires where needed).  
• Run extra wiring for heated pitot (14Ga red/black hot/ground)
• Placed 1/4 plastic lines (Green/blue) for pitot and AOA sensing.

Installed landing light in left wing.  I previously had fabbed these up from the kit (2 AeroLED landing light kits) and primed them using black primer, same as inside the wing bay where they're mounted.  Attached wires from the harness to these.  There is a ground that runs back to the ground lead on the landing lights from molex that will supply power to wingtip nav/strobe lights - so these two share a ground.  Nicely designed to save a bit of weight and  complexity.

• Fitted ailerons to the aileron brackets.  A little tricky for the following reason:  The qb wings have a service bulletin done to strengthen the inboard aileron brackets.  The rivets that support the extra structure were interfering with the free movement of the inboard aileron.  I "edged up" the aileron skin in this area, replaced one rivet with a flush rivet, and finally re-arranged the spacers/washers to move the aileron slightly outboard.  Good clearance, but this took a ridiculous amount of time to get done.  Happy with the results.
• Fitted aileron torque tubes, aileron push tubes, aileron pushrods.  Using the template/jigs supplied by Van's, this is really easy.  The aileron pushrods were perfect - no adjustment needed.  I had to shorten the push tubes about 3/8" to get the "neutral position just right (2 and 17/32" inches from inboard rib to center of hole in torque tube to be precise).   I shot a video of the torque tube moving aileron - it's starting to have some characteristics of an actual airplane.

• 
  

Left fuel tank back on wing and stall warning.

After testing the left fuel tank, it was time to put it back on the wing.  But before this, I wrestled with the decision of whether to install the stall warning horn.  I had previously put rivets in the holes that define the stall warning vane opening.   I'm going to have a heated pitot tube with AOA but I decided to install it anyway for the following reasons:

• I have always flown airplanes with standard stall horn - it's "wired in"
• I like redundancy
• It will work correctly on first flight, unlike AOA which needs calibration
• I can wire it to a light or an audio tone as opposed to a "Horn" which may not be easily heard with ANR headsets
• I can always disconnect it, but it would be hard to add after finishing the build 
• I already had the parts

I had to remove and replace because the initial position didn't allow the microswitch to trip properly - easy fix.

Tank is back on wing, easy peasy.

Fuel tank tested (left wing), and the power of VAF

I'm trying to do more frequent updates as I have in the past.  Not much happened since last post but I did test the fuel tank - 3 times.  After installing the fuel sender, pickup/strainer, and fuel strainer (bottom of tank) - I removed the fuel strainer, put an air valve (Schrader valve) in place, put a balloon on the vent opening, and filled the balloon with air.   Each time I went over every seam, rivet, etc with soapy water in a spray bottle, looking for leaks.  None found.  I was worried because the balloon didn't hold air indefinitely.   So I called Vans and spoke with Gus who said this shouldn't be a concern - it's hard to seal the balloon completely, and if the soapy water test finds nothing it's unlikely that there will be any leaks.  I may repeat the test after replacing the tank on the wing.

I got a fantastic message on Vans Air Force 2 days ago - someone who follows this blog noticed that I had made a mistake installing two (symmetrical but different) parts on my fuselage.  These parts (F-141119 root fairing attach angles) were installed "backward" - actually on opposite sides of where they should be.  So I ordered parts to replace/fix this error.  Here's what's great about this:

• Folks are following my blog (great as long as no one thinks of me as a source of "correct" knowledge about building an airplane)
• They care enough to point out mistakes when they see them (please let me know if you see a mistake!)
• I can easily fix this now - it would be hard if I discovered the error when trying to put root fairings on when wings have been mounted
• VAF continues to be a community where folks help each other out.

Left wing - aileron and flap gap seals riveted.

Quick update - see photos.   Also will start testing fuel tank today - received balloons from Amazon and sealant on the fuel sender has cured.

End of 2017 Update - starting on QB wings

Since the last update I received QB wings and have started work on the left wing.

Before starting wings I wrapped up the vents.  Not a big job but I made one decision (after checking with Van's) to make a small change - I decided to rivet the vent brackets in addition to using silicone adhesive.  I match drilled two holes in each bracket and then dimpled them: easy on the brackets but on the fuse side skin I had to use special dimple dies that pull a nail through to set the dimple.  

On to QB Wings:  First, I've inspected as much of the wing as possible, comparing the plans to what I see and checking work.  For the most part, work is very good.  I've found some rivets on the left fuel tank at the inboard rib to skin joint that I'm not impressed with, but I'm worried about replacing those since this area is sealed.  Will discuss with Vic Syracuse - if he says to replace these I will, using sealant obviously.

One of the first actual construction things I did was pages 17-04 and 17-05.  I installed the access hatch doubler (after the obligatory deburr, scuff, prime, dimple, using nutplates etc.   Looks very nice.   I also installed the landing light brackets - before doing this I primed inside the rib bay where the landing lights will be with black primer.   I countersunk and placed rivets in the two holes that are normally used to install the stall warning horn: I will be using AOA as part of my pitot tube setup so won't need the duplicate stall warning.

Next I fabricated the landing light lens and backing plates.  Fit is good but with a small gap at the leading edge - despite lots of effort to pull this flush during match-drilling.  I'll live with it and seal later after permanent installation of the landing lights.

I removed the left fuel tank after fabricating plywood forms and installing these on bench - will stay off wing until work is complete.

Last few days I worked on aileron actuation - fabricated the pushrods, installed aileron bellcrank, and fabricated the torque tube assemblies for both wings.  I'll hold off a bit on installing all this until fuel tank is back on wing and after installing the wiring/tubing in wing.

Today I bent the wire for the fuel sender float - after quite a bit of tweaking I'm happy with the fit and I went ahead and installed the sender, after testing resistance range. I used an "endoscopic" camera that connects via wifi to my ipad to inspect the positioning of the float and assure no interference with rib or vent line.  I verified electrical connection to airframe after installation - one of the screws that is used on the sender has a lock washer to ensure electrical connection.  Also installed plug in upper hole, fuel strainer/drain, and fuel pickup/strainer.