Lots going on these days. Since last post I received some items needed to finish the installation of the Airflow servo - I had to replace the original studs which meant I needed stud removal tool (nice but expensive item from Snap On) and the recommended Loctite primer and high-temp thread locker for the replacement studs. Got all that done, permanently mounted the servo and the throttle and mixture cables, and started fitting the snorkel.
Every decision you make that deviates from Vans "standard" build results in consequences. The FM-150 servo fits differently from the standard servo, so the snorkel has to be modified to work - I followed the method described by "Nova RV" on Vans Air Force - basically I cut slits (actually removed wedges of material) and remodeled the snorkel to fit the air filter frame as it sits, clecoed it up and then used strips of fiberglass cloth to close the gaps and permanently reshape the snorkel. I'm happy with the result and will spend the next few days permanently mating the snorkel to the air filter frame, and shaping/sanding the inside and outside surfaces to be smooth and accept the alternate air door.
Sealing up connectors on CHT wires:
Based on recommendations from experts on VAF, I used these "OLC-1" connectors which avoid the problems that tend to happen with these wires: crimp connectors tend to corrode, solder is not acceptable due to the special metallurgy of the thermocouples, and the standard ring terminals that include screws seem to be problematic as well.
Servo permanently mounted - use Permatex gasket sealant on the gaskets (it's blue):
Mixture cable rod end - I wasn't able to use Aiflow's recommended position here (rod end on top of arm) because the rod end and cable extension (hex shaped rod) interfered with the arm and other structure). I ran this approach by my guru (Vic S) and he gives it a thumbs up.
Snorkel mods with peel ply in place:
Oil cooler with seals and fittings for hoses. Because of the PMAG and use of remote oil filter I ran the oil lines differently from Van's standard - so fittings are clocked to work with those routings. All good.
Routing wires to cylinders:
I installed a quick drain for oil changes (when I removed the plug lots of preservative oil came out - that stuff is gooey).
Every decision you make that deviates from Vans "standard" build results in consequences. The FM-150 servo fits differently from the standard servo, so the snorkel has to be modified to work - I followed the method described by "Nova RV" on Vans Air Force - basically I cut slits (actually removed wedges of material) and remodeled the snorkel to fit the air filter frame as it sits, clecoed it up and then used strips of fiberglass cloth to close the gaps and permanently reshape the snorkel. I'm happy with the result and will spend the next few days permanently mating the snorkel to the air filter frame, and shaping/sanding the inside and outside surfaces to be smooth and accept the alternate air door.
I spent quite a bit of time installing and wiring up the CHT probes, running wires to spark plugs, making sure they are all properly supported, etc.
Also I installed fuel line from firewall to fuel pump, fabricated and installed the oil breather hose, fabricated the oil cooler support tray, and all the associated hardware to install the oil cooler. This includes installing seals and sealing up the corners of the cooler inlet assembly. While I had the red RTV out, I sealed up the baffles along the front of the engine.
Also - final fitting of the nose wheel fairing using flox to seat the brackets:
Sealing up connectors on CHT wires:
Based on recommendations from experts on VAF, I used these "OLC-1" connectors which avoid the problems that tend to happen with these wires: crimp connectors tend to corrode, solder is not acceptable due to the special metallurgy of the thermocouples, and the standard ring terminals that include screws seem to be problematic as well.
Servo permanently mounted - use Permatex gasket sealant on the gaskets (it's blue):
Mixture cable rod end - I wasn't able to use Aiflow's recommended position here (rod end on top of arm) because the rod end and cable extension (hex shaped rod) interfered with the arm and other structure). I ran this approach by my guru (Vic S) and he gives it a thumbs up.
Snorkel mods with peel ply in place:
Routing wires to cylinders:
Oil cooler tray:
I installed a quick drain for oil changes (when I removed the plug lots of preservative oil came out - that stuff is gooey).
No comments:
Post a Comment